posted June 02, 2004 02:23 PM           

Dye your hair and dress conservatively if that's an issue, but (as pixelpixie implied) there'd be way too many "what ifs" on my end for me not to grab the opportunity.

posted June 02, 2004 02:37 PM         

"Family". What you chose no longer just affects you, but those that love you dearly. Maybe if you can determine what the environment is like, say if you will be in a secured area, what the work conditions will be like and the people you will be "living" with, then you can make a more valid decision.

If you find through your research that you will be working in an oppressive environment full of danger, then you may want to rethink your decision. Such is the case when family is involved. Now, if you were single and wouldn't leave behind a widower or children, I'd say jump on it - it's your life.

posted June 02, 2004 03:01 PM         

Here is information collected as I've looked into traveling to Egypt on an expedition, and am happy to share.

- There is terrorist activity within Egypt that is not only directed toward Americans. Particularly, car and bus bombings.

- There is more danger if you are in possession of an American passport.

- The desolate areas are considerably more dangerous than the cities.

- Women traveling alone are spit at and ridiculed by the local men.

- Relations between the US embassy and the government are not superb.

- The locals are distraught with geopolitical affairs and poverty and are not always the most welcoming to foreigners.

posted June 02, 2004 03:33 PM         

Can you take a peek at the future, as you have peeked into the past?

What a difficult decision. Personally, I would not hesitate to travel to most of Europe right now. But Egypt? If I were in your shoes, I would be as torn as you.

The answer to one of your questions: Yes, you are putting a target on yourself. It does not, however, mean that you definitely will be a target. But you already know you will be traveling in one of the most dangerous areas on earth for you to be.

I wish I could be of more help, but it's not my decision to make. Sometimes, if I feel fear, I force myself to face it...so even if I feared going, I might go for that very reason. I also fear regrets.

Do you believe that, given the political climate, you will be able to fulfill your desire for adventure and archaeology?

posted June 02, 2004 04:01 PM         

You can still go but be really sensible about conduct, dress and so forth. Wear a scarf, hat and glassses when away from the dig, and of course never go off on your own.

I've travelled quite a bit and as long as you don't draw too much attention, you'll be just fine. I'd go in a blink of an eye. Gosh, you are so lucky, wish I had your job!

Abydos truly still has a mysterious life. I have been totally obssessed with Abydos for years now. I would just love to stand in the Temple of Sety on the eastern edge of the desert near the village of Arabet.The temple I think is the only one that contains seven vaults, three for the holy family of Abydos[Osiris,Isis and Horus] the other three are gods, sorry I only remember Amon Ra of Thebes, and the seventh was Sety. It's supposed to be cosmic marvel. Eady believed the temples were not ones of worship but were indeed built to house the gods. Please do go and keep us well informed. Any visitors allowed?

Do you know anything at all about Dorothy Eady's life? She lived at Abydos for years amongst the temple ruins. She was also one of the greatest scholars of Eygyptian religion and antiquities. She believed herself to be the reincarnation Omm Sety who was a temple princess and lover of the 19th Dynasty - Pharoah Sety I.

Dorothy Eady was amazing. She was quite normal untill she had a nasty fall at age three. I believe she fell down a flight of steps at home. She was totally unconscious and later on pronounced dead by the family doctor. When they went upstairs to prepare her body a few hours later, they found her playing on her bed and happily eating chocolate. However after the fall, she started having vivid dreams about Eygpt. She kept crying, telling her parents she wanted to go home. Her poor mother would tell her not be silly and reassure her she was at home. They took her to London to the British Museum as she was always so sullen and miserable. They found themselves dragging this petulant child from one exhibition hall to another. However, when she entered the Eygptian galleries she started going crazy. She started kissing the feet of all the statues, crying out in joy, calling them by names, calling them her people.

Her poor mother and aunt who also witnessed the event, could not believe their eyes when she attached herself to a particular mummy in a glass case. She simply sat down beside it and would not budge for love or money. She kept screaming 'Leave me alone...these are my people!' Apparently they had to carry her out kicking and screaming. She lived in semi poverty amongst the ruins at Abydos until her death of old age in 1981.

Please read the book THE SEARCH FOR OMM SETY it is written by Jonathan Cott and it has loads of info plus pictures of Abydos. It really is a must read.

Funny you should post this. I was talking to my sister the other day about Abydos and her last trip to Egypt. She knew about my obsession and was able to bring back loads of stuff for me. It's a place I kept meaning to go to but somehow never made it. People are said to experience weird stuff at certain astrological times. One writer, not Eady suggested that that whole site was a recorder of time. Oh lucky you!

posted June 02, 2004 04:02 PM         

More info:

Although I am willing to cover my hair (or dye it) and wear traditional clothing while traveling, I simply cannot see myself crawling around in the excavation pits wearing a birka.

I would not have any traveling companions. I would be on my own until I reached the excavation site. I have done this many times and it usually wouldn't bother me at all, but with the current political atmosphere, I am a bit concerned (i.e. bus bombings, etc). Last time I went to Egypt to explore in a place archaeologists refer to as the Valley of the Queens, I went alone. The men were very rude and forward. One followed me into a women's restroom and attempted to amuse himself while peeking into the stall. Turned out he wasn't very amused when I smacked him in the head with the door. I have never been afraid to travel anywhere, but that was before 9/11 and the Iraq war. It is my understanding that things are far different now. Much more dangerous for foreigners.

The dig will be in a rural, fairly desolate place, so Aphrodite's warnings are pretty applicable.

Will I regret it if I don't go? Probably. Who wouldn't? But it isn't as if this is my only chance to participate in such projects.

My family is the thing. My Cappy man insists that even though he has sat calmly by and watched me go off to other digs, this one will freak him out in the extreme and I shouldn't even consider it.

Frankly, if it weren't for my family, I'd go in a heartbeat. But when I see the look on his face, and that of my son and step-son, it makes me think I'd be really selfish to do this. They seem to worry that some website will be hosting my execution and punting my head about. The fear is so visible in their eyes.

I got my Canadian citizenship years ago and am a dual citizen of Canada and the US, so I won't have to use an American passport. But I kind of wonder if they will bomb first and ask for ID later. My body language and stance give me away immediately as a non-Muslim woman. People have asked me if I was American when only my brown eyes were showing.

Anyway, I have one week to decide. The part of the excavation that I would be involved with begins in September, but I have to commit now. I'm just so torn. I have tried telling my family that I know for sure I am not destined to leave this incarnation any time soon, but they just ask how I'd feel if it was one of them going. Answer...no way in h*ll would I let my son go over there. But this isn't him, its me, and I know my way around strange places and cultures.

posted June 02, 2004 04:18 PM         

I doubt that visitors will be allowed on site during the fall excavations. It is my understanding that they plan to open a tomb.

posted June 02, 2004 05:28 PM         

The project will last from Sept. 20 to Nov. 20, and the crew will work 6-day weeks, with Fridays off. Airfare, food, and lodging are provided in addition to negotiated salary. In addition to the benefits of working at Abydos, a major ancient cult center and the focus of much current archaeological work, trips will be arranged on days off to sites in the region.

posted June 02, 2004 05:46 PM         

Just a hypothetical situation, say you decided not to go. Hopefully, you will have a good reason that has to do with yourself. This is because nobody on the outside of a decision making process likes to be told, "I missed out on this opportunity because of you." Or you don't say anything but show it in body language. Some people may feel guilty, or just plain angry for being hinted as the cause of someone else's disappointment.

Just an FYI, this is not meant to scare you.

Love,

posted June 02, 2004 05:56 PM         

While it is a dangerous and exhilerating offer, I would ask mys-elf if it was Mr. Cappy, would I send him off with my blessings? Or would the fear of loss hold you back in sending him off? That truthful answer would tell me what is the right choice.

How very difficult for you and I wish you all the best in arriving at your answer!

juniperb

posted June 02, 2004 10:11 PM         

You really do have to decide this on your own. However since you did ask, this is what I think.

It's only a month...four weeks!!!!
You'll be there and back in a flash. Also you'll be on an official site, and as it's an official dig, I'm sure you'll have some Egyptian people from their antiquities dept present also. They are quite paranoid about antiquities these days I hear.

Good thing it's in a desolate place, out in the bongo bongo's, cause if anyone should drop a bomb somewhere I would think it would be in a posh hotel or night spot in Cairo. A place filled to the brim with westerners and tourists. Just pause, and think of how many thousands flock to see the Pyramids every year? They take coaches, trains and boat trips up and down the Nile. Nope, I'm convinced they won't worry about the bongo bongo's too much.

Should mention also that although Egypt is considered Islamic, they do have quite a large population of Eastern Orthodox Christians which is quite unusual, and a tad more progressive.

One does have to be cautious. There are many places that I would not travel to right now. I guess a part of me also firmly believes that if it's time to pop your clogs, it can happen sitting at home in a chair or whilst crossing the road. A friend of ours died sitting on a British Rail train on his way home from work a few months back. Sad thing was nobody noticed.

posted June 02, 2004 10:25 PM         

Perhaps the answer will arrive in my dreams.

You are all the best!

posted June 03, 2004 06:41 AM           

*kinda grumbles about no longer being "single prox"*

Yeah.
The part that I neglected to mention was that Jason would, upon hearing my plans, cry and throw a general fit until I gave in to his view.

I faced a similar situation last summer (well, as similar a situation as I can be face with, I suppose). There was a scholastic uni trip focusing on the subject of conflict transformation (or the lack thereof) being planned for the "winter semester" to N. Ireland, Cyprus, and...Israel. I went wild for the opportunity as soon as the organizing professor described it to me while I was working.
Jason...didn't.
I wasn't pregnant yet and we were only talking about marriage once I was done with school and he about half way through flight training, but he still reacted very (veryveryvery) negatively to the idea. He said that he couldn't bear the thought of something happening to me over there; and once we found out that I was pregnant it was a done deal. He just became to adamant to oppose on the subject.

*squints eyes*

posted June 03, 2004 09:11 AM         

wow. good luck with your decision, fishkitten.

i get the same thing from my (immediate and extended) family every time i leave the country these days. egypt is a tough one to figure out right now - being Muslim and in such close proximity to Iraq - but i bet no one expected Bali to be targeted by terrorists either, so who really is safe these days...

is this a once-in-a-lifetime chance to dig at Abydos? how much oversight by the Egyptian government will the dig have? will there be other westerners at the dig? have digs been continuing in Egypt throughout the war in Iraq and have the archaeologists been safe? [i'm just posing questions i would ask myself - you don't need to answer these in your post!]

one thing you may want to try is checking around the web for chat rooms or sites for expats living in Egypt. every city/country i've lived in has had a version of this where expats can gripe and trade info. perhaps it would give you a sense of safety "on the ground".

if your family could go with you, would you let them?

and in case you didn't come across it yourself, here's a US site for travel safety: http://travel.state.gov/egypt.html

quote:

---

SAFETY AND SECURITY: The U.S. Embassy in Cairo periodically receives information concerning extremists' intentions to target American citizens or interests in Egypt. In light of this information, we urge Americans to be vigilant and exercise good security practices while in Egypt. Americans may contact the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Cairo for the most up-to-date information concerning the security situation in Egypt. (Please see contact information in the Registration/Embassy Information section below.)

There have been no attacks on tourists since an attack by extremists in the Upper Egypt town of Luxor in November 1997. Heightened security posture throughout Egypt, particularly since September 11, 2001, has made it more difficult for extremist groups to conduct terrorist operations. However, the threat has not been eliminated.

For the latest security information, Americans traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Department's Internet web site at http://travel.state.gov where the current Worldwide Caution Public Announcement, Travel Warnings and Public Announcements can be found.

---

can't wait to hear what you're going to do...
xb

posted June 04, 2004 04:51 AM         

close-up ...